SUSTAINABLE AND VALUABLE: HOW FASHION IS EVOLVING?

The 2000s have forever changed our consumption habits and the fashion market – the new market’s wide opening, the near disappearance of trade barriers especially with China, the introduction of the internet and considerable improvement of logistical resources (allowing lower transportation costs) will cause a fundamental renewal of the textile industry organization.

The garment doesn’t carry a whole lot, doesn’t deteriorate along the way, isn’t submitted to any strict regulation, thus production doesn’t require enormous investments or expertise. This will permit a massive movement of relocation of production. First China, then Pakistan and Bangladesh and soon all poor countries searching exportable economic activities. Production prices are collapsing resulting in a rapid and constant price deflation of garment.

At the same time, we assist to a major marketing phenomenon: fashion democratization. On one side, TV series such as Sex and the City justify American spending behaviors. Buying a very expensive pairs of shoes instead of paying rent seems the most logic thing. Hello to affordable luxury for a new type of clientele- this part of population which was originally left out of luxury and had to save to buy. Adding Zara’s global expansion and the fashion show’s reachability on instyle.com we end up with an entire new generation of fashionistas with a large spending power. Fashion that was before kept aside for an disciplined elite is suddenly becoming ‘accessible’ and 18-years-old teenage girl in Hanovre in Germany can write on their resume: interest – fashion, reading – Grazia.

There followed a hackneyed history: a frenetic over-consumption of garments which are of no use, an accelerated pollution caused by this industry, working conditions that makes any moral justification impossible. All to result an uncertainty every day in the tube : does all these fashionistas are really well-dressed?

In the 2010s, the beginning of a new questioning emerges: can we continue to approve this system? Should we change everything? But the numbers prove it, in practice, nothing changes, fast-fashion’s revenue are going up and as the Chinese’s wages keep raising, relocation continue and finds new areas, poorer, with loser restrictions.

Green fashion is stopped by too expensive products – yes, it’s difficult to face Bangladesh’s prices. Above all, the deed of purchase needs to be a delightful moment, often meaningless and useless. The shift in thinking rationally these acts needs to be avoid at all costs, if not it’s the justification of the purchase itself that risks to be questioned. Because, if we’re honest, the best way to not pollute is to not consume and the risk to go out without new purchases is finally insignificant for the most of us.

In the second part of the decade, a new phenomenon pop up: hipsters. Its impact will remain limited on fashion, but will be essential on food consumption – I am what I eat, I want to enhace my body, my achievements and my pleasure. Consequences, organic and vegan food flourish. To rescue the wildlife? No, rather for an egoist interest, to take care of ourselves.

A question comes up: this mechanism of narcissistic focalisation around personal desire and profound interest in the product, could it form practicable way out for the fashion industry? It was the issue throughout the second Zoom session of IFM Alumni entrepreneurs, in which participated Alexandre Blanc, creator of women’s pret-à-porter with a soft and full of love vision of garment.

Wear a piece of clothes with pleasure over time, search carefully and find the perfect cut that goes right with the body, discover the luxury of tailorse-made and value ourselves through an outfit are subjects that came back stubbornly during this conversation. Therefore, the well thought out choice of the materials whose touch gives a true pleasure could become a real argument against trinket immediately disposable. For less polyester and more cashmere? 

The question of the link with the consumer is another subject that has sparked debate. Big brands are trying to create an increasingly intimate dialogue through WeChat or WhatsApp, but this is an area where smaller brands naturally find it easier. They maintain proximity with consumers in a much more natural and immediate way.

Returning to the product could be a further step towards a change in behaviour. A consumer who is more attentive to the product could also be a consumer who buys less, with structural consequences on the industry's economic balance.

And in the end, will we consume less but better and, above all, with more pleasure?

Prediction is always a difficult exercise, but in the subject of the shift towards responsible fashion is perhaps more difficult than usual. It is clear that institutional, associative, and economic actors of all sizes are seeking, trying, experimenting, but above all groping. On the other hand, the feeling was shared by all the participants, which undoubtedly opens up new paths, giving more weight to the designer, the product and the materials... and we can even glimpse that such an evolution will make the fundamental values defended since its origins by the Institut Français de la Mode shine.

AF PARIS