ALEXANDRA HARWOOD & VICTOR DAST, LEATHER BOUND
Above the Marne River, live Alexandra Harwood (IFM Management 2019) and Victor Dast, co-founders of Atelier Dast. Their brand, which specializes in saddlery and leather goods, was conceived in this living and creative space where every object is in its place, from leather rolls to «pricking iron » and « paring knives. »
Oscar opens the door for me and the couple’s Staffie (Staffordshire Bull Terrier) runs between my legs, quickly caught by his owners with whom he will make eyes softly throughout the interview. Alexandra, in a white shirt, and Victor, in a black sleeveless jacket, settle down on their sofa, their dog never far away.
Family business
His mother’s maiden name, Dast is a short with a long heritage. Victor chose to name the brand after his late uncle, a craftsman, as well after his grandfather, who was passionate about wood and capable of creating fine marquetry and furniture. For the Dasts, creativity is in their blood. Victor followed in the footsteps of his older sister, whose work at Azzedine Alaïa, Yves Saint Laurent and Louis Vuitton made him dream of having his own career in fashion. When Alexandra used the word "Atelier" to describe Dast, she emphasized that this word best defines them, as they wish to promote the value of saddlery and leather goods. After studying the cultural history of fashion, she chose to attend IFM to move from observation to action, dreaming one day of accompanying an artist. Victor on the other hand, for whom there is no such thing as doing a half job, joined the Compagnons du devoir : a rigorous school. He was fortunate enough to meet the expert saddler Jacques Ferrand who quickly became a mentor for Victor.This trade is transmitted orally and cannot be learned from books. "Saddlery and leather goods are the techniques of saddlery applied to leather goods. There are many steps, it is a process that takes a lot of time but gives a much more solid product and, in my opinion, a product with a soul." By observing people in the trade, taking apart vintage objects to study their construction, their thickness, Victor continued his apprenticeship which he is still pursuing. After leaving Les Compagnons, he and Alexandra chose to write their own story on leather.
Made With Intention
This creative couple loves "fashion that makes sense". A phrase that keeps coming up in our conversation. "I always loved clothing and accessories and my dream was to make them," says Victor. And Alexandra adds, "When Victor talks to me about his job, it makes sense. There is something very therapeutic about making an object. From trial and error, Atelier Dast was born offering beautiful essentials: card cases, card holders and belts. "The leatherworker's wife is the best accessorized, you have to know that!" says Alexandra proudly, lifting her shirt to reveal her belt. Behind the apparent simplicity of this "good basic", every detail is thought out for these custom-made belts. The brass buckle comes from Poursin, a French manufacturer founded in 1830 that supplies the buckles of the French Republican Guard. To work the natural calf leather model, Victor must be careful not to stain it, the slightest fingerprint or a single drop of water could be fatal! As a living material, leather evolves and develops a patina over time. Dyed edges, sanded edges, and all along the belt a net like an ornamental line. On closer inspection, everything is smooth and perfect, right down to the choice of leathers, sourced in France or in Europe. And as Alexandra explains: "More than Made in France, what is important for us is manufacturing tha makes sense! We have resources close to home, why go elsewhere? We choose the “Made with Intention.”
The old and the new
After the launch of the essentials, Atelier Dast also offers a purse inspired by a very Art Deco shape, leather charms to adorn a bag or even hang from a belt, and a natural calfskin lined clutch for the big nights out. Always with soft colors: lavender, dahlia orange, mint green, sky blue, mimosa yellow... " Most saddlery artisans make black and brown all the time and we wanted to take up the traditional codes of saddlery but with colors because nobody dares!" Between tradition and contemporaneity, Victor hunts for his tools in flea markets or on resale sites between individuals. He has others made by craftsmen in Japan, the country that makes them dream and where they imagine their ideal customers. The dreaminess, the poetry, are found in their flowery shootings whose artistic direction is signed Alexandra. She inscribes in reality a know-how that goes against the grain of an ultra-productive era but is definitely in the air for those who favor quality. A commercial strategy that creates a special relationship between them and their customers.
Time and nothing else
"When I'm working, there is no longer any notion of time. I am hyper concentrated. Fip radio is our best friend!" Each piece is handcrafted by Victor and shipped within 21 days maximum. "Even before receiving a piece from Atelier Dast, we want to create an emotional bond between the object and its future owner. This emotion is what Victor feels when he creates and it's what I love about fashion." As if for each object created, Victor left a small part of himself. "What counts is the regularity of the gesture, you are never safe from a badly drilled hole, a thread that breaks...each object is an adventure." Beyond the pieces created for Atelier Dast, Victor continues to accept special commissions. For those who dream of a unique wallet, a lipstick case, a custom box... " I'm naturally anxious, and the saddlery and leather goods business channels me. But my favorite part is when a piece is finished. I put it down and contemplate it.
Alexandra and Victor have been fine-tuning Atelier Dast for almost 4 years. Their future projects? Launching new products such as a handbag, opening a workshop-showroom to give their customers the experience of saddlery and leather goods, launching a pop-up or inviting artisans to collaborate on limited editions. "Atelier Dast today is the meeting point between Victor and me, tomorrow between us and other artisans for co-creations. For us, Atelier Dast is a place where artisanal creation is paramount," concludes Alexandra. And Victor adds, "Linking know-how, creating collaborations for art pieces, is for us luxury at its best."
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